Wild Air Horse Show Wrap Up...

 

   What better way to start off the spring show season than to bring home the ribbons?!  Not to mention the opportunity to show at a new local venue with great staff & amenities.

   Despite the chilly start it was a great day and EVERYONE contributed to the ribbon wall!  Congrats to Libby & Aila on their first horse show together bringing home the Beginner Rider Champion AND Beginner Rider Crosspoles Reserve Champion Ribbon!   Hats off to Ramona & Nicolas for their Champion Ribbon in the Mini Hunter Division.  Hooray to Roxy and Claire for securing two firsts, two seconds, two thirds, two fifths and one sixth place in their respective 2' and 2'6" divisions.

 

A good time was had by all (especially by Mary, see above left) and as is the case with every show, some classes provided opportunities to celebrate progress made and some served as a reminder of what needs improving.

We're excited to head to the next venue in Ohio May 28th & 29th for the opportunity to show "our stuff" at the Country Heir Show!  Way to go Sport Horse Team and we hope to see you all there!

Urgent** Update of the Lesson Program Fees...

2015 brought about some various changes within the lesson program and as is the case of implementing any new system, some changes were easily integrated while others not so much.  The integration of the of the Pony Club Program has been well received, providing clear guidelines for the progression of correct elementary riding.  However, attempting to keep up with the the ever increasing labor and supply costs of running a business has turned out be be another challenge completely.  As of November 2015, the "Barn & Grooming Supply Fee" has brought about much confusion as well as adding many more accounting hours than intended.   The concept of this fee is simple really, a person owning a horse (boarder) has much more invested financially when taking lessons than a non-boarding lesson student.  The obvious expenses of owning and maintaining a horse not to mention the equipment one has to purchase to handle and ride the horse are mind boggling to say the least.  With this in mind it is industry standard to charge more for non-boarders lessons where all supplies, equipment, horse and facility amenities are provided vs. a boarder's lessons where the horse, equipment and supplies are provided by the student.

With these points in mind, we have decided to discontinue the monthly billed "Barn & Grooming Supply Fee" effective immediately and for the sake of simplicity, will raise all non-boarding lesson rates by $5 per lesson effective May 1, 2016.   Anyone who has a balance of untaken lessons from a package purchase made prior to May 1st will not be required to pay the new lesson rate until they purchase the next package.  We’ve enclosed a current copy of the revised Fee Schedule, please familiarize yourself with the fee due dates as to not incur late fees!

Horse Facility Management...

Is Keeping Your Horse At Home Cost Effective?

(As published by Classic Equine Equipment company newsletter)

 Is horse keeping on your own property a better option for you and your horse than boarding at a stable?  

There's something to be said about looking out your window and seeing your horse relaxed and happy in your barn or pasture.   And there's the convenience to be able to take just a few steps out your door and be ready to tack up and ride in a few minutes.  However, there are many reasons why keeping your horse at a boarding stable might be a better option.

  • If you've never owned horses before, starting at a boarding stable with a knowledgeable barn manager, workers and trainers is a good option.  
  • Boarding at a stable can result in reduced horse care costs.  Remember that boarding stables often buy hay and bedding in bulk because they have the room to store it. 
  • Like to take a vacation?  With a boarding stable, there's always someone to feed your horse. When your horse is at home, that person is you.
  • Vet visits are another cost that can be reduced with other horse owners.  Vets charge a "farm call" fee in addition to any medical treatment.  With a stable full of horses, there is usually someone else at the barn who'd like to talk to the vet or have him take a look at their horse while he's there.  You can usually split the farm visit fee with another boarder.  Spring /fall shots and dental visits are another way to save money.  Boarding stables often have "shot clinics" where the vet comes out and all the shots are done at one time.  The same is true for dental work.  Again, this saves you the cost of the farm call fee.  
  • Farrier services can be difficult to find if you only have one or two horses and live in a remote location.  Farriers often like to work at boarding stables where they can go to just one place, set up once and shoe numerous horses.  It may not be worth his time to have you as a client if most of it is spent driving to and from your barn.
  • If you plan to show your horse, you'll need your own trailer to get to the show or clinic.  However, if you're at a boarding stable, it's possible that others from your barn will also be going and it's likely you can add your horse to their trailer.
  • There's the camaraderie principle.  This doesn't have a cost, but after a few months of keeping your horse at home, you may find you miss the social aspect of being at a barn.  It's nice to talk to someone after a good lesson or have a shoulder to cry on after a bad one.

Building your own barn can be a challenge.  Before you start thinking about location, construction materials, stall types and amenities, decide if home horse keeping is right for you and your horse.

Equine Wellness...

Caring For Horse Hoofs This Winter

(As published by Classic Equine Equipment company newsletter)
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Your horse's hoofs grow slower in the winter. Just how much slower depends on a variety of things, mostly how weather in your area affects your horse care.  If you can still turnout much of the time you may not notice much.  These changes come mostly from the circulation in the hoof.  When horses are ridden or are turned out less, there's less circulation to the hoofs. Slower hoof growth is good news for some people - this can mean fewer visits by the farrier.  But for others who are waiting for a crack or other hoof problem to grow out, this reduction in hoof growth can mean a long wait.  


But hoof growth isn't the only issue to worry about this winter.  Ground that is frozen is unyielding and can cause hoof soreness or bruises. Riding slowly on frozen ground is one way to prevent this. Adding pads to your horse's shoes is another way.


Abscesses seem to spring up any time of the year, but winter seems to be an especially popular time.  Often this is caused by the change in temperature - warm and muddy one day, cold and frozen the next.  The hoof wall expands and contracts to meet these conditions and can allow bacteria in. Another method of entry for bacteria is through wet feet.  Excessive moisture from too much washing of legs to remove mud can soften the hoof and also allow bacteria in. This can also cause the problem of scratches or pastern dermatitis.  Scratches are a common problem of inflammation of the skin behind or around the pastern of the horse.  


Winter is one of thrush's favorite times of year because it thrives in wet, dirty bedding and areas where mud, mixed with manure, is found.  Creating mud and manure free turnouts are also important.  Use stall mats, hog fuel or gravel in paddocks and sacrifice areas to help cut down on mud.  Clean areas at least once a day or so to prevent manure from causing problems.


If you're thinking of removing your horse's shoes for the winter, be sure to check with your farrier or veterinarian first.  Some horses might need the support and structure that shoes provide.  But even without shoes, don't forget to get your horse's hooves trimmed regularly

.

Two other areas that can cause concern during the winter months are snow turning into balls of ice and putting pressure on the center of the sole and icy surfaces on which your horse walks. In both scenarios, your horse may simply stop moving.  The balls of ice can cause soreness or lead to tripping, and one slip on an icy surface and your horse will feel unsafe and not want to risk slipping again.  Both situations can be avoided by riding and walking your horse on safe ground.


Winter has a significant effect on your horse's hoofs.  Being mindful of these changes can help your horse keep his hoofs healthy.

Horse Health...

Resisting Rain Rot

While it's snowing in much of the country, winter often means lots of raining days, too - and an opportunity for your horse to get "rain rot."  Rain rot is one of the most common skin infections seen in horses. It is also referred to as "rain scald" or "streptothricosis". 

 

The skin usually has a cut or scrape for the organism to be able to enter the system though the skin.  A horse can become infected by shared saddle blankets, leg wraps and brushes with other infected horses  In addition, any equipment that may rub (i.e. polo wraps or boots) can irritate the infected skin.

 

The organism dermatophilus congolensis causes rain rot. It is not a fungus, but anactinomycetes that behaves like both bacteria and fungi. Most people believe that the organism is present in soil, although this has not been proven. The organism is carried on the horse in his skin; however a horse that has this organism in his skin may or may not be affected.  

 

Rain rot can appear as large crust-like scabs or small 1/4 inch matted tufts of hair usually on the horse's back and rump, along with the back of the fetlock and front of the cannon bone. It may also appear on the tips of the horse's ears and around the eyes and muzzle. When rain rot appears on the lower limbs (behind the fetlock), it is most commonly referred to as "dew poisoning". In the early stages, you will be able to feel small lumps on the horses' skin or hair by running your hand over your horse's coat. There is usually dozens of tiny scabs that have embedded hair and can be easily scraped off. Underneath the scabs, the skin is usually (but not always) pink with puss when the scabs are first removed, then it becomes gray and dry as it heals.

 

Rain rot is not life threatening.  In fact, if left untreated some horses will naturally get rid of the organism as they shed out their winter hair coat.  But this is not recommended.  It is best to treat start treating the disease as soon as possible, especially to keep it from spreading. It can also develop a secondary bacterial infection, such as staphylococcus (staph) or streptococcus (strep), making it more resistant and difficult to treat.  

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The best treatment is to wash the horse once a day for a week with antimicrobial and antibacterial shampoos and rinses like Betadine, help to kill the dermatophilus congolensis organism.  If your horse has a heavy coat, clip him first.  Keep the horse in a dry, clean area that is very well ventilated. Separate the horses with rain rot from those without it.   When treating this condition, you must also keep all equipment used on the horse disinfected to keep from him becoming reinfected.  You can use a solution of 2 tablespoons or bleach to 1 gallon of water to wash any of the horse's blankets, saddle pads, leg wraps, etc.

 

In severe cases, your veterinarian may recommend a course of penicillin or other antibiotic to help get rid of the organism.  Contact your veterinarian if you do not see improvement of the condition.

Originally published by Classic Equine Equipment December 2015 Newsletter


Things to ponder...

Money Is More Expensive Than Ever For Horse Shows

By: W. Gary Baker

I read with great interest the articles written in the Aug. 15 issue of the Chronicle by Ron Danta and Kim Stewart (“Where To Stash Those Derby Dollars”) and Geoff Teall (“Ensuring Our Hunter Sport Can Change With The Times”) all regarding current controversies within the sport of showing hunters.

All of them have overlooked what I see as the biggest problem within our sport, and that is the cost to the average exhibitor. Adding money into the equation has more than doubled the problem.

Several statements made in the various articles are not correct. The “hunter world” did not decide that a “money won” model would give professional horses greater value. A few professionals on the USHJA Hunter Task Force had this vision and tried to get it passed several times without success. They finally got it through, though it was barely discussed in open forum. No votes were taken that year on rule changes, and they finally got their way. Most exhibitors did not even know that it had passed. Had it been voted on, it would have been turned down again. This is not how rule changes should come about.

Every rule change that is submitted should be well thought through before it is voted upon. That means that the USHJA Rules Review Committee needs to think through to see all of the ramifications that will occur when such a rule is passed. This is what is needed for the health and well being of the hunter sport, and this has not been done.

Having an award for “money won” is a wonderful idea. Using “money won” for qualifying and for Horse of the Year awards is a terrible idea. The reason why is quite simple. It increases the cost of showing for the vast majority and gives a reward only to the small percentage of exhibitors at the top. When the minimum money to be offered for an “AA” show was increased from $18,000 to $25,000, everyone’s entry fee went up.

Let’s face the facts. On the average, the same horses and ponies win the majority of the classes. That means that the majority of the division gets just about nothing in the way of money. Look at the results of this year’s USEF Pony Finals and compare them to the champions at the major shows last year, and at Devon (Pa.) and Upperville (Va.) this year. The majority of the division is paying a high price to be at the show.

Now look at what has happened to the regular pony divisions at the average “A” or “AA” show. At the big shows the entries are still good, but at the average shows they often have to combine either the small and medium or the medium and large divisions. To add to the problem, the Pony Committee doesn’t even seem to be aware that there’s a problem!

I just received a prize list for one of the fall shows. Small ponies pay an entry fee of $925. There is about $425 in other fees on the entry form, and that is without any additional schooling or equitation classes. Yes, the prize money is good, but remember that the same few ponies win the majority of the money. This is what the emphasis on money has done to many of the divisions.

At one point in time the professional divisions had a decent number of entries in just about all but the conformation divisions, but they did fill. Now, the average show is hard pressed to have a first year, second year and high performance division without combining. Again, money is one of the big problems. As with the ponies, the same horses or riders win the majority of the money.

I’m not saying that the judging is bad; this is just the way it is. Those local people who came for the “fun” of it just don’t come anymore. They can’t afford to! And what has “money won” done for the single “A” show? It has just about killed it. Why? Again, it’s just about the money.

The single “A” show does not offer enough money to make it attractive for the professionals to bring their green and regular horses. When they don’t bring their horses, they don’t bother most of the time to come at all with their other entries.

Derbies Are Different

The hunter derbies are great for our sport. Everyone agrees on that. They are, however, a different type of class and do not appeal to everyone. The logic of why a “conformation” horse should get points from a derby escapes me. There is no conformation in a derby. A horse that happens to show in the green conformation division five times and is a really good jumper but not a conformation horse could win the high-score award with a system such as this. Why is this correct? The derby classes should stand on their own, and there should be a year-end award for them. I have proposed a rule change for this to happen.

To encourage the 4-foot horses to go into the derbies, our rules have been changed regarding entries. Now, for the 4-foot horses, you can enter by the class instead of by the division. This is good for the exhibitor who wants to come and go in the derby and one class as a school. It’s not good for the show, however, that must now offer the most money in that division and oftentimes does not have the entry money to support the prize money. Many of these rules have just not been thought through well.

I love to hear so many people talk about “tradition” when they really don’t remember anything about it. Tradition is the old “appointments” classes; it’s a totally different pace around the course than you find today. It’s a different style of judging. It is not a horse rounding its back; it’s a horse galloping and standing off at a jump, oftentimes leaving out a stride. Those horses were often flat in the back but good with their knees.

“Tradition” is flat leather and usually no saddle pad at all. Yes, they have gotten some of the old jumps, but we never had the decorations that we have today. Many of the oxers were square, and “hogsbacks” were quite common. The in-and-out at Upperville on the outside course was 33 or 34 feet, and it was one stride. None of the lines were measured, and no one counted strides.

“Tradition” is also in a rider’s style. You never saw a rider sitting on a horse’s back all around the course. They got up out of the saddle and tilted their body forward, and not with their rear end facing the sun.

It Should Be Fun

Yes, we need to re-structure our hunter divisions. Perhaps not to the way that they were 30 or 40 years ago, but in a way that the average person can again afford to go to a show and have a good time.

To quote Sallie Sexton, “It used to be fun.”

I don’t see a lot of people having fun anymore. There are very few exhibitors who show to win money in the hunter divisions. They show for the joy of competition, often with friends or family. They show to qualify for the shows that they want to attend. Having a good round or two is the reward for the majority.

We do not want to make our sport so expensive that only the very wealthy can afford it. That, in my opinion, is what the emphasis on “money” is doing. I totally disagree with Geoff Teall when he says, “Money won is not the reason for the decline in our open divisions, but it might be their salvation.” I think, as does the majority, that it is the reason for the decline at the lower levels, which is where we have been strong in the past. The people at the top, most of whom do not know what happens at the average show, are killing our sport without realizing it.

I want to put on a good show as much or more than the next guy. At my one big show I do a complimentary lunch for everyone on the grounds, every day of the show. I have a dedicated water truck driver, a dedicated tractor driver and give a cooler for just about every division at the show. Obviously, this all costs money. When the “A” rated divisions cannot even produce enough entry fee money to cover their prize money, something is very wrong.

In this economy, we’re pricing ourselves out of the reach of the average exhibitor. The real problem is, the people at the top, the ones making the rules, don’t have to worry about what it costs to go to a show. Most of them don’t live in the real world.

W. Gary Baker, Middleburg, Va., is the U.S. Hunter Jumper Association Zone 3 chairman. He’s won numerous zone and national awards, most of them with homebred horses or ponies. He’s a former judge and current show manager of six A- and AA-rated competitions and is also the chairman of the USHJA Pony Hunter Breeding Task Force.

Dressed to Kill – Rider Safety is Always in Fashion

By Equine Guelph

11/24/2015

If you enjoyed Equine Guelph’s “Plan A Head” article last August, you already understand the importance of wearing a helmet. You are not willing to risk vegetable brain to avoid helmet head and you know the importance of choosing a helmet safety approved for horse riding not cycling; but what about the rest of your ensemble? Regardless of your riding discipline, safety starts at the head and continues all the way down to the toes. 

Give Improper Footwear the Boot

You could be dressed to kill if your riding boots do not sport a wedge heel. A moment of imbalance is all it takes for a foot to slide through the stirrup creating the potential for a nasty accident. Being dragged by the ankle rarely ends well for the rider. Wearing a boot with a low wedge heel and ankle support significantly reduces your chances of dangling upside down from an animal that flees danger first and asks questions later. Types of sole and tread also require consideration. Extra heavy treads or waffle treads commonly found on hiking and winter boots should be avoided as they can become jammed in the stirrup. Many riding schools also use safety stirrups, equipped with an elastic band on the outer edge of the stirrup which breaks away in case of an involuntary dismount. 

Accessories to Axe

While on the topic of aversions to being dragged--let’s talk about bling. You can find it at every horse show now--from rhinestone brow bands to helmets adorned with gems. There are so many ways to stand out but steer clear of jewelry that dangles. Necklaces, bracelets and hanging earrings are all accessories that can become snagged. Keep your look streamlined right down to braiding long hair or tucking it into a show bow.

Get a Grip

The same goes for riding gloves--they should be a snug fit and non-slip. Gloves are highly recommended whenever you are riding or leading a horse. They provide protection against friction burns, calluses and blisters, not to mention the weather.

Smart for Any Season

Then again, we do need to mention the weather. What is the old saying? There is no bad weather, just wrong clothes. Vests are quite popular when the temperature starts to drop as they allow riders to maintain mobility and comfort. Large bulky clothing can easily be caught on equipment or objects. Riding apparel is close fitting for a reason. Chaps, half chaps and breeches are designed to provide grip and protect the rider from friction sores. 

They come in a wide variety of materials for all seasons so dress for the weather. While equestrian specific leg wear is not a riding necessity, it is a good investment for the serious rider. If you are still testing the waters be sure to avoid pants with prominent inseams and any leg wear that wrinkles or bunches along the inside. 

Body protectors are available to help protect your torso if you fall. They are not just for eventers anymore!Rodeo riders are all wearing them now, along with speed games competitors, jumpers, long distance riders, trainers starting young stock, pleasure riders…even dressage riders under their show jackets.

For riders putting on the miles, high-visibility clothing is a must. Brightly colored safety vests are perfect for those traveling on roads. They help ensure you are seen and send a clear message that you should be given a wide berth. Further road safety tips include: telling a responsible party where you are going and ETA for return, carrying a cell phone (turned off so it does not spook your horse) and bringing your health card. 

Whether you are hitting the trail, going cross country or riding in the ring, outfit yourself head to toe in smart, safe riding gear. Maximize your enjoyment of riding while reducing your risk.

Website changes...

We have made some minor layout changes to the website, specifically the payments page and wanted to keep you abreast of our progress.  The third party handling of credit card processing has changed from Stripe to First Data Corporation, securing your information using SSL (Secure Sockets Layer), the leading security protocol on the Internet. Information is encrypted and exchanged with an https server to keep private information private.  The "Payments & Registrations Page" is no longer accessible with this service, instead various payment link buttons have been placed on their respective web pages, i.e. lesson payment buttons are located on the "Instruction" page.  A board payment button on the "facility" page and a gift certificate button on the home or "sport horse inc" page.  We appreciate your feedback, good or bad, so that we can continue to "tweak" the system in allowing payment convenience and security from your home and/or work computer.  As always, we appreciate your continued support and understanding!

Are we looking for you???

Sport Horse is looking for a part time responsible (dependable and accountable) person to "man" the tack shop and perform various duties between shop and barn.  General horse knowledge and Hunter/Jumper discipline familiarity is a must!  Duties would include (but not limited to) A LOT of cleaning (cobwebbing, dusting, running a vacuum or shop vac, lesson tack laundry, tack cleaning and conditioning) being able to run a simple cash register, lifting and carrying 50 lbs. grain bags, organizing seasonal displays, caring for plants, follow instructions and be able to work independently and without supervision.  Hours of the shop are Wednesday through Friday 14:00 to 18:00 and Saturday 9:00 to 13:00, anyone interested in all or any of the shifts please contact Alex either via email or text.  Anyone looking to barter services is welcome to apply as well! Thank you!!!

How Horses See...

Horses, like most prey animals, have their eyes positioned on both sides of their head.  This is so that they can have a wide field of vision t to watch for approaching predators.  Horses have "monocular" vision, meaning that each eye sees things differently and independently.  Again, this benefits the prey animal as it allows him to look to the side to see where the rest of his herd is with one eye and at the same time look behind him to see if anything is coming after him.

 

Horses can also switch to a version of "monocular" vision, though it is not the same as human or predator monocular vision.  The horse can look at something with both eyes at the same time and will see the same thing in both eyes.  However, he is still seeing two separate views.  

 

Horses can switch between monocular and binocular vision depending on the situation they are in.  When they are relaxed and grazing, they can use their version of binocular version.  But if they sense something moving behind them, then can immediately switch to their monocular version and continue looking at the grass with one eye, while checking for predators with the other.  Once he realizes there is nothing there, he can relax and go back to binocular vision again.  This switching back and forth between looking at something with one eye vs. something with both eyes is why horses sometimes spook at inanimate objects.  Your horse may have seen it with one eye, but when he turns to focus on it with both eyes, until he gets his eyes focused at looking in one direction,  it can appear to the horse as if the object moved.

 

Horses have large eyes. This is an advantage for a prey animal as it enables him to detect the slightest motion.  Horses also move their heads up and down because their visual field is narrow.  To see an object clearly, the horse tilts his head so as much of the object as possible fills his eye.  Tilting his head also gives the horse better depth perception.  Despite all this, there is still an area around the horse where he is quite blind - . in front and behind the horse at about the width of his body.  If you can't see either of the horse's eyes when mounted or working on the ground, then he can't see you!


Based on the eye chart developed by the Dutch ophthalmologist Herman Snellen, horses see as well as we do in some instances.   Comparing horse vision with humans, research found that horses actually see well at a distance. The Snellen scale for humans is 20/20, meaning that a person can read the same line on an eye chart from 20 feet that the 'standard' person reads from the same distance. Using this Snellen scale, horses rate 20/30 a dog is 20/50 and a cat is 20/75.


Horses are mostly day animals although they will continue to graze at night which suggests they do have some night vision. Horse's eyes are sensitive to weak light, so they can see fairly well at dusk, but they don't have the ability to adjust their eyes to darkness quickly, which is why they will often refuse to enter a dark building or float from bright sunshine. Adding lighting inside and around the barn can help give them a sense of safety.


It was once commonly thought horses were color blind but in fact they do have the ability to see some color. The eyes contain light-sensitive cells and there are two types of cells called rods and cones. Humans have three different types of cones which means we can see all colors.  Horses have only two types of cones so see far fewer colors.  


Knowing how your horse sees things will change the way you approach and work around your horse, creating a safer and more trusting environment and a better, stronger partnership

Clipping your horse...

To clip or not to clip?  It's a question that faces every horse owner this time of year.  Clipping will allow your horse to dry more quickly after exercise and grooming is much easier. You will find your horse maintains a better and more healthy looking coat. 

 

However, certain considerations should be taken when deciding to clip.  If you live in an area with even mildly cold winters, your horse will need some sort of a cover-up to keep warm.  Also, older, lame or horses that are ill may need their own coat to help keep them warm in addition to some sort of blanket.

 

As the summer draws to an end and the evenings start to drop in temperature, your horse's coat will begin to change. It will start look dull as it grows in length and by the end of September, you should be thinking about what clip your horse will need. The first clip will probably be at the beginning of October and you can give your horse several clips throughout the winterwhen necessary, making sure that the last clip is around end of January/early February.

What clip you chose for your horse depends on his coat and the type of work he will be doing.  

The most common are:

  • Belly and Neck Clip:  a good clip suitable for horses that are used for light work or that live out during the winter months.  The head, top of the neck, body and legs are left unclipped so you will still be able to turn your horse out.
  • Low Trace Clip:  a good clip recommended for horses in light work. It will help him dry more quickly, but enough coat is left on so that you can turn your horse out.  However, heavier blankets may be necessary in cold or inclement weather.  The legs are left unclipped for extra warmth.
  • High Trace Clip: good for horses in light to medium work.  Similar to the low trace, but the coat is clipped further up the horse. Legs are left unclipped for warmth and extra protection.  Since more coat is now being removed, more and/or heavier blankets will need to be used.  NOTE:  You can clip your horse's head or simply run the line up the neck and under the head.
  • Blanket Clip:  good for horses in regular work as you can exercise your horse without sweating and he will dry more quickly.  The coat is removed completely from the head, neck and flanks, leaving only the legs and an area over the back that looks like a small rug. The legs are also left on for warmth and extra protection.
  • Hunter Clip:  suited for horses in hard, regular exercise such as hunting or winter showing.  All the coat is clipped except for the legs, the saddle patch and an inverted V above the tail.  The saddle area should match the outline of your saddle, NOT the saddle pad. The legs are also left unclipped for warmth and extra protection.  When exercising outside and it's very cold and/or windy, consider some sort of turnout blanket to keep your horse warm enough.
  • Full Clip:  usually only given to high level competition horses that work very hard. The whole coat is clipped except for an inverted V above the tail.  The horse should be blanketed at all times and when very cold, bandages may be necessary to maintain your horse's warmth.

There are a lot of additional types of clips, including variations of those mentioned above.  And then, of course, there are the "artistic clips."

Once you have decided on the style of clip you are going to give your horse, it is advisable to outline the area. Chalk or masking tape will give you a visual guideline to follow.

Make sure your horse has a bath to get rid of dirt and grease that has built up before you clip.  A clean horse allows clippers to easily glide through the coat.  Clipping a clean coat also keeps the clipper blades sharper longer.  Make sure he is also dry - clippers don't work well on wet hair. Also, consider braiding the mane and tail before clipping - it is much easier to clip without those in your way.

If you've never clipped before, don't be afraid to ask someone to help - or to even do it for you.  Neither you nor your horse want a bad experience with clipping.


Originally published by Classic Equine Equipment Newsletter

Country Heir September 2015 Wrap Up!

After a week of struggling with the absence of good internet service at the farm, the pictures & videos have finally been uploaded and we are ready to share all of the good fortunes of this past weekend with everyone!

The facilities were AMAZING, the rings ran smoothly and the staff was a pleasure to deal with.

EVERYONE contributed to the ribbon banner and by the looks of it we are considering a longer banner for future shows :)  A huge feat for the Sport Horse Team, all things considered...

The combo of Claire & Roxy at this 3rd outing is still only 10 mos. old, yet they managed to place in EVERY CLASS entered!  For their first outing, Jenn & Freyja are less than one year in the works and despite Freyja's not having jumped prior to her arrival at Sport Horse placed 4th in both the over fence and under saddle class out a field of 18!  Despite Lauren & Blue's two year relationship, this was only their second time showing overall, first time showing jumpers and yet they managed to shine like rock stars placing in all of their classes!

A special congrats to Nicolas & Ramona, collectively their first show away from home and yet brought home the Champion Ribbon in their Short Stirrup Hunter Division.  And finally a special congrats to Andrea & Grady, who during their second outing together managed to secure the Reserve Champion of the Intermediate Adult Hunter Division.  Unfortunately at the time of the picture below this hadn't been announced so hence the absence of the ribbon.  A HUGE thank you to all who came and conquered, the Sport Horse Team spirit was ever present in every aspect of this show from riders to horses to trainer (regrettably Lauren was unable to stay for this Sunday picture ceremony).

And now without further delay, the link to the long awaited video highlights:

Enjoy :)

Things to ponder...

Something to think about

Yesterday I gave a lesson. The horse owner had had an accident on the pasture and now she is easily scared of her own horse (who likes to look around but is gentle in general). She is quite an unconfident person and I am trying to help her to be more self-assured. 
Two behaviors attracted my attention: She asked for something, she got no response from the horse, she immediately stopped and became sad and disappointed. Plus: She asked for something, her horse didn't offered the right answer right away and she became slightly impatient with the horse. 
The first example shows how little she is convinced of what she was doing. She almost expects it to not work before she even tries. She gives the aid, it doesn't work, and her conclusion is "I am doing something wrong". But not her doing is wrong but her thoughts. It's like having the first piano lesson of your life and beating yourself up afterwards because you are still not able to play that concert piece you've heard on the radio. 
Cut and run is not the solution here. Instead, stick to it and give you some time. This is why we use phases with horses. We ask friendly, but we are able to reinforce and be clear about what we want and that we want it. Just because it doesn't work when we start out, it doesn't mean we are useless and whatever we are doing is pointless.

The same applies to the horse, which brings me to the second example. She not only has no patience with herself but also she cannot appreciate the horse's tries. It's not so much that she blames the horse for being stupid, it's her perspective: She interprets the horse's tries as mistakes. And she wants to prevent these mistakes from happening. 
Please don't get me wrong here. I am in no way bashing this woman. On the contrary: I think she is brave as she carries quite some fear and is willing to tackle it and work on it. Plus, she is quite handy with the rope and stick already. So it's not clumsiness that gets in her way: it's her mind and her perspective
A little perseverance and the belief that what she is doing will work out - even if at the beginning it doesn't - will fix the first problem. Allowing the horse to try and find the right answer without being judgemental will fix the second problem. 
This is why I like horsemanship so much, by the way. You don't tell the horse what to do. Instead, you present him the signal and let him work it out on his own (with your support, of course).

Nadja